turbo install

[SweetHonda24]

Once I am done I will make a sticky for how to install a turbo. For now I will just post up pics and a few comments that I can cut and paste into the sticky.


catch can:

the clear hose on the right goes to the where the pcv valve was, the other side will go to the intake pipe on the turbo. I need to drill a hole in the pipe and install a barbed fitting to attach the hose.
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/install%201.jpg

charge pipes:

just make em fit where they can. you can see i outlined where the BOV flange will be welded on. also in this pic you can see the other end of the clear hose coming from the catch can. I installed a plastic 90 elbow with an o-ring to put into the valve cover.
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/install%202.jpg

injectors:

i was advised to relieve the gas pressure by opening the gas cap. i dunno if its necessary but i did it anyway.
the black thing is the wire cover. take it off by removing the two bolts. then remove the three nuts holding on the fuel rail. undo the plastic white clips on the injectors by using pliers to pull off the metal ring. when you pull the injectors out of the fuel rail a small amount of gas is going to come out, dont be alarmed. remove the plastic and rubber rings inside head. install the new injectors and don't forget the rubber ring they come with.
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/install%205.jpg


forgot to get a pic of the intercooler... ill try to remember that this weekend when i go back home.

[SweetHonda24]

Well the charge piping owned me this weekend. I spent about 6 hrs getting the front bumper to fit back on. I had to move the intercooler back towards the radiator and adjust the piping to make the body kit fit on. Even then i still had to hack away a good part of the front bumper so it wouldnt hit the charge pipes. The piping fromt the intercooler to the TB is 100% done and painted. Looks damn good too. I wish I had a pic but the batteries died in my camera. I was able to get the gauges installed too. The boost gage is done and the oil pressure gage is done except for tee-ing off the oil pressure unit on the back of the motor.

Thanksgiving break is next weekend so hopefully I will finish the oil lines and get the turbo put on.

And as promised here is the pic of the front mount :D
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/fmic.JPG

[Prowler]

Looks sweet. That's the problem with my supercharger. Nothing really shows it off when looking at the car, just the sound of it when it's spinning up.

[4doorfamilycar]

Looks sweet. That's the problem with my supercharger. Nothing really shows it off when looking at the car, just the sound of it when it's spinning up.
36728

Its also sort of a good thing, because you're less-advertising of what you have under the hood :P

That front mount really does look sick on there Sweet. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[SweetHonda24]

Thanks guys!

I am finding out that puting a turbo on a car that was not meant to be turbo is a pain in the a$$....

I can't wait to see what fun will come from trying to squeeze the turbo and manifold in there. :blink:

[kevoweb]

looks sweet man. the project is coming along nicely. i'm impressed that your doing this during the school year. i wouldn't even attempt an install like this while taking classes. good work man. :thumbsup:

[4doorfamilycar]

Thanks guys!

I am finding out that puting a turbo on a car that was not meant to be turbo is a pain in the a$$....

I can't wait to see what fun will come from trying to squeeze the turbo and manifold in there. :blink:
36731

In some of the turbo builds I've helped out with, the manifold and turbo aren't too much of a problem, unless the space is reallllly tight to work with.

[clyde004]

Beautiful Mike....just damn beautiful....FMIC looks great....hope it all pans out for ya...keep us posted of course, and keep up the excellent work.

[SweetHonda24]

thanks clyde! i hope to have more updates and pictures next week.

[Hondacivicexboy]

the install trouble ive always had has been oil and getting the turbo filled and all that crap. oil lines=evil

[4doorfamilycar]

the install trouble ive always had has been oil and getting the turbo filled and all that crap. oil lines=evil
36855

haha, yeah oil lines is usually a tricky one. The only install trouble I'd really see in a first timer would probably be charge piping.

Before starting your car, try this to get oil through the turbo... taken from my FAQ thread

My new turbo is installed, now what?
Before starting the motor, it is important to get an adequate supply of oil through the turbo. To do this, disable the ignition or injectors (different for various cars) so the car is able to crank without firing. Crank the motor over for 30-45 seconds in 10 second intervals. This will pre-oil the turbo, and prevent premature thrust bearing failure.

[clyde004]

and the learning never stops!!!!!! :thumbsup:

[TuningMode]

looks great so far, nice information on the install

[SweetHonda24]

thanks for the tips guys. i'll definitely be sure to do that. i have some updates but i'll have to wait till i have more time to post them. i'm at home with 56k so everything takes 1000000x longer.

[SweetHonda24]

alright so over break i have had a little time to work on the prelude. i finished the gages 100%, the bov is done, and the oil lines are 100% done. still waiting on the manifold... which they say they shipped but couldn't provide a tracking # so whatever.... i am at a standstill until the manifold gets here. when it arrives i will be able to bolt on the turbo and wastegate and finish the intercooler piping and be just about done.

Oil Line kit

Here is the oil line kit I purchased from stealthmode performance.
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/oil%20line%20kit%202.jpg


Oil return line

First you will need to drain your oil. Next remove the crossmember that runs over the oil pan(if you have one). You will need a 14mm socket and a long breaker bar to remove it. Now remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the metal cover that is between the oil pan and the transmission. Now you are ready to remove the oil pan. Use a 10mm socket to remove all the bolts and nuts around the oil pan. Use a rubber hammer to knock the oil pan loose. DO NOT PRY BETWEEN THE OIL PAN AND THE BLOCK UNLESS YOU PLAN TO REPLACE THE GASKET. Use some soap and water and clean up the inside of the oil pan. Drill a 5/8" hole in the oilpan. See figure below for where to drill the hole.
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/Oil%20Pan.jpg
*Thanks to Eric at cb7tuner.com for the oil pan schematic*
Clean up the hole and the area around it with a dremel or grinder. Weld or JB weld the larger oil line fitting to the oil pan. Once dry attach the oil return line with a hose clamp. Bolt the oil feed adapter to the turbo and screw in the other oil return line fitting. Attach the other end of the oil return line to the fitting using a hose clamp. The oil return line should have a nice wide bend to the oil pan rather than a sharp curve.
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/106-0681_IMG.JPG

Oil feed line

Remove the oil filter and locate the oil pressure sensor. It should be about an inch above the filter and has a black rubber covering. Use a small flathead scewdriver and pry the black cover off. Use a deep 15/16" socket to remove the sensor. Locate the adapter in your oil line kit. Screw the stock unit into the end of the adapter. Be sure to use thread sealer or teflon tape on all the threads. Now screw the adapter back into the motor. Find the tapered fitting for the oil return line and screw it into one of the open holes on the adapter with the tapered side facing out. Screw the oil feed line on to the fitting and run it up and over the valve cover to the turbo. Screw the other oil feed line fitting into the oil feed port on the turbo and connect the oil feed line. If you have an oil pressure gage, screw the fitting for it in the other side of the adapter. Run the nylon tubing for the gage up through the engine bay and through the firewall to the gage. Replace the oil pan and call it a day.

This is what the fittings should look like once they are on the car:
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/Oil%20Feed%20Fitting.gif

[SweetHonda24]

Blow off valve

The easist thing to do is to buy a pipe that already has the bov flange welded on. If you can't find one, buy the adapter flange and take it to a place that can cut and weld it on for you.
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20stuff/bov%20flange.jpg
Make sure the bov is at least 12-18" away from the throttle body. Once you have you pipe made, put the gasket on and bolt on the bov. Run the vaccum line to any vaccum source on the intake manifold. Power steering, cruise control, or the fuel pressure regulator line work well. Cut whatever line you choose and insert the provided t-fitting. I used the FPR line.
http://crew.autoshowoff.net/sweethonda24/turbo%20install/106-0683_IMG.JPG

[SweetHonda24]

Installing Manifold and Turbo

First remove the stock heat shield and exhuast manifold. You will need to either cut the exhuast off or unbolt it before the flex pipe. I couldn't unbolt mine, so i just cut it at the bottom of the exhuast manifold. Make sure you unplug the stock o2 sensor before you start ripping things apart.

Next test fit the turbo to the manifold. Bolt them together and make sure everything is lookin good. Next fit both the manifold and turbo to the motor. It might take some squeezing and turning and such, but be patient. Once you get it on, put the nuts for the manifold on and tighten them down. In my case I had to remove the front torque strap and grind away part of the block to get the turbo to fit. I plan to get urethane motor mounts to make up the difference. If you have an external wastegate bolt it on and make sure it doesn't hit anything. Now you can figure out the rest of the intercooler piping and downpipe. Once you have everything test fit, take it all apart. At this point you can paint anything you feel needs to be painted and reassemble everything. Make sure to add your gaskets and apply gasket sealer and thread lock to your bolts.

[SweetHonda24]

Removing/Installing ECU

The ecu is located under the carpet on the passenger side of the cabin. Pull back the carpet and remove any plastic panels necessary. The ecu is under a metal kickplate for protection. Remove the 10mm nuts holding the kickplate on taking care not to loose the nuts or cut your fingers. In my prelude there were 4 10mm bolts holding in the ecu, remove those bolts and unplug the wire harnesses. I replaced my stock ecu with a chipped p75 out of a 95 integra. The new ecu is plug and play so just plug the wireharnesses in. The mounting points for the new ecu were not the same so I was just extra careful to use the kickplate to hold the ecu in place. Put the nuts back on and push the carpet back down and call it done.

[Bfinch2002]

hey man its lookin great.
do u have power steering and a/c? are u keeping both? ive heard that keeping them makes putting the turbo in a real pain.

you will have to get a video once its done. and making a how to for this will help alot.

[SweetHonda24]

yeah i was able to keep both the a/c and the p/s. definitely a tight fit, but it should work out ok. the only problem is i don't have room for an air filter. I guess i'm gonna find the finest mesh screen I can and hose clamp it over the intake on the turbo.